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Re: watches

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сначала мы убиваем американского лося и белку.

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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

Yeah been keeping an eye on these. Looks like quality. Sadly, I don't really like the look.
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Re: watches

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I'll be honest: I don't really like anything about it. I just thought others here might be interested.

The way he talks, you'd think they invented the automatic wrist watch.
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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

Is the movement no good?

It's just a bit too sporty and chunky for me.


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Re: watches

Post by J.D. »

Movement should be fine. It's a Sellita SW-200, which is not a movement I know well but they have been around for quite a while. It's basically a clone of an ETA 2824.

http://www.ablogtowatch.com/making-sens ... ta-2824-2/

This is why it's a good idea to search something before you buy it. You need to know what's inside...
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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

Actually kind of interested in this watch... Also started it's life on kickstarter, seem to get a bit more for your money though I think. Miyota 9015 movement.

http://windinguptime.com/2014/09/13/rev ... -helmsman/

Bit of info here on the Miyota 9000 series movements.

http://www.ablogtowatch.com/japanese-mi ... movements/
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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

The Seiko Cocktail is on Massdrop again. Such a nice watch. That subtle blue hand, and the blue stitching down the leather strap. So tempted! Shouldn't be looking!

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/seiko-cock ... b065-watch
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Re: watches

Post by Cursed »

DexterPunk wrote:The Seiko Cocktail is on Massdrop again. Such a nice watch. That subtle blue hand, and the blue stitching down the leather strap. So tempted! Shouldn't be looking!

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/seiko-cock ... b065-watch
No! No frivolous watch purchase for me until the frivolous Oculus Rift purchase is a done deal. I have a bit of a half-chubby going for that watch myself.
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Re: watches

Post by Vilante »

That is pretty isn't? Luckily I already have a similar watch so I'm not tempted :)
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Re: watches

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DexterPunk wrote:Actually kind of interested in this watch... Also started it's life on kickstarter, seem to get a bit more for your money though I think. Miyota 9015 movement.

http://windinguptime.com/2014/09/13/rev ... -helmsman/

Bit of info here on the Miyota 9000 series movements.

http://www.ablogtowatch.com/japanese-mi ... movements/
Yep: Miyota = Citizen.

On a different subject, I like this:

http://www.stowa.de/lshop,showdetail,14 ... ieger,.htm
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Re: watches

Post by Nigel »

DexterPunk wrote:The Seiko Cocktail is on Massdrop again. Such a nice watch. That subtle blue hand, and the blue stitching down the leather strap. So tempted! Shouldn't be looking!

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/seiko-cock ... b065-watch

Now they put it up. Right after grabbing the sarb033. Which is in the air at the moment, shouldn't be too long now. Can't wait.
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Re: watches

Post by J.D. »

https://monochrome-watches.com/comparat ... ecs-price/

Given my preference for Zenith, I guess everyone here will know what I would want but that Seiko is very impressive, if a bit expensive. The lack of a seconds stop on the Zenith is a bad point.
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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

I'm really liking Seiko of late. There's a few more of those JDM watches i'd like to get. I was actually looking at the Grand Seikos on Seiya today. Maybe later this year i'll pull the trigger on one... Or something swiss.
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Post by J.D. »

There's a lot to like. Seiko are classically Japanese: high quality and very reliable. Everything works as advertised. The Grand Seikos are a whole 'nother ball game (with the same comments about reliability etc.).
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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

Was reading another article about 6R15c movements being just as good as the common ETA movements. Apparently it's still a fairly new development out of Seiko, but it seems to me that literally the only advantage (mechanically) going an ETA watch, is that it has Swiss made written on it. Just seems crazy to pay thousands for something no better than a $500 Seiko.

If I buy something Swiss instead of a Grand Seiko, I'll be making sure the movement is at least quality. Should have a look at Omega again.
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Re: watches

Post by smithcorp »

Fantastic watch on massdrop at the moment - the Mondaine Stop 2 Go. A chance to get a discounted modern classic!

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/mondaine-s ... romotional
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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

Nearly $500 for a quartz watch? How do they justify that with just an hour, minute and second hand?

I don't mean to rubbish it. I guess each to their own.
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Re: watches

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DexterPunk wrote:Was reading another article about 6R15c movements being just as good as the common ETA movements. Apparently it's still a fairly new development out of Seiko, but it seems to me that literally the only advantage (mechanically) going an ETA watch, is that it has Swiss made written on it. Just seems crazy to pay thousands for something no better than a $500 Seiko.
There are reasons for this and they are quite extensive so I'll try to summarise it.

First of all, the Japanese watch industry isn't as complex as the Swiss. There are really only two major manufacturers (if we leave out Tenshodo, who are domestic market only and Orient, who while good, are relatively small). Seiko and Citizen (Miyota) stabilised fairly quickly after the return from the ashes of the quartz revolution. They redesigned some of their movements and commissioned new mechanical movements like the 6R15. This is a major undertaking because the time and effort which goes into something like this is far from trivial. In Switzerland, the manufacturing base was far more fragmented, in part because there were so many brands. In the late 1980s there were dozens of distressed brands, many of whom had not produced anything of use for some time. Heuer were picked up for a song by Techniques Avant Guarde and changed to TAG Heuer, relaunched and even moved to a new factory. The brand as it was no longer exists in reality. Another similar story is Blancpain - one brand who can claim never to have made a quartz watch - also picked up for very little money and re-launched as a luxury brand. There are many other similar stories. Oris were actually dropped from the list of reputable timekeepers when some of their watches failed in tests. Who would criticise them now?

Enter the Swatch Group and ETA. ETA is descended from Eterna and the link can be found in the five dots of the Eterna logo: a graphic representation of the five main bearings in their watch rotors. They are owned by the Swatch Group. Because the demand for mechanical watches suddenly skyrocketed, ETA suddenly found themselves swamped with orders. This was compounded by the decision but Lemania, another quality ebauche manufacturer who have worked with Fortis on the Russian Cosmonaut watches, to work exclusively for Breguet. That put the bulk of Swiss movements straight into the ETA camp.

Swatch Group CEO, the late Nicolas Hayek, decided that the larger brands would have to stop being lazy and start manufacturing their own movements, at least to some extent. The idea was to get some diversification into the industry and increase its chances for long term survival. To do this, many watch manufacturers would have to start doing what they had not done for decades: design new movements or be squeezed out by lack of supply (there were probably also some legal issues regarding competition which drove this as well). Two movements which came out of this were the TAG Heuer cal. 1887 and the unfortunately-named Beitling B.O.-1. The TAG Heuer was a reverse engineered Seiko and the Breitling is a totally new design.

Along with this is the fact that a lot of Swiss watch movements are now outside their patents. Movements like the ubiquitous 282X and 283X series are slowly but surely being phased out. Many parts and in fact, whole movements, are now being quite legally produced by companies like Sellita. The investment of Chinese capital into the market has allowed ETA to phase out a lot of their parts manufacturing because the quality is at least comparable. This is as much an issue of modern manufacturing as anything else.

The outlook is actually quite promising, with an upsurge in variety and a wider interpretation of horological philosophies. Sounds like a wank but it’s true. There are now more movements coming out than there have been in a long time and the Swiss watch industry continues to grow. Compared with the bubble of a few years ago, the diversification makes for healthy growth.

However, it’s going to take a long time before the flow on effects can be measured against the Japanese. At a qualitative level, the new Japanese movements are probably of similar cost/performance to an ETA 2892, considered by many to be the best automatic movement out there and a totally different movement to the movements I mentioned earlier. But there is a lot more to come. It takes anything up to five years to start a new movement design and get it to production.

In the end, it depends which movement you are talking about.

Sorry for the long post.
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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

Really interesting to hear more about the ETA movements, cheers for that.

The only thing I'd mention is that the reversed engineered Seiko/Tag apparently started its life at Heuer. I'm guessing very little of it represented it's former self when Tag bought the patents back though. It's just kinda funny seeing the Swiss purists get all out of sorts about it.
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Re: watches

Post by J.D. »

Omega have re-released the legendary 1960s Constellation "pie plate" watch and added some new features. It's now part of their "Master Chronometer" range:

https://www.omegawatches.com/planet-ome ... ronometer/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-o ... hronometer
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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

They seem to understand that the retro look is quite popular right now. Looks fantastic.
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Re: watches

Post by smithcorp »

J.D. wrote:Omega have re-released the legendary 1960s Constellation "pie plate" watch and added some new features. It's now part of their "Master Chronometer" range:

https://www.omegawatches.com/planet-ome ... ronometer/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-o ... hronometer
Are there any more deliberately difficult to navigate sites than high-end watch websites? If you want actual information on a watch, don't go to the glossy wankfests that are the manufacturer's websites.
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Re: watches

Post by DexterPunk »

Yeah it's ridiculous isn't it. The hodinkee link JD posted is much better.

The actual omega page ended up taking me to some other watches. I don't know how.


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Re: watches

Post by smithcorp »

Yeah Dex, that's what I experienced. Who the hell are they aimed at? Their own marketing people to justify their budget?
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Re: watches

Post by J.D. »

Mmmm... I didn't have any trouble.
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