New Beast (now Toyota 86 discussion)

[ysu]

This is what I've gathered about the sensors a while back (they're not both o2 sensors exactly)

pre-cat: gray, AFR sensor, pointy, (top side of ace header)
post-cat: black, o2 sensor, flat tip, (bottom side of header)

[pixelboy]

If you guys are serious about pimping ya 86....

>> http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/11/fer ... yota-gt86/

[ysu]

Thanks, Pix, we're just fooling around, really...

[Vilante]

[crimespree]

I posted about the MCA traction mod on ft86club (suspension forum). Thought you guys might be interested in it.



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[crimespree]

Ps. We had our first go at Norwell Motorplex a few weeks back. Awesome tight track. Will do 6 there next year!


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[ysu]

Hey guys - finally got around installing the dual radiator.
Took us about 1 day all up, made up of 2 half days.

There were a few tricky bits, but overall it wasn't too hard - and it seems we got it right (no leaks) first go.
The coolant (toyota blue) was very expensive - $100 for the 2x4L premix. Fark me.

We've installed the A/T cooler radiator core too, but the hosing wasn't present (I did not have time to review everything and so I forgot to buy the hoses, heh)

Few pics.

The car (almost completelk) apart, coolant draining. The top radiator bracket is still to go.


The new radiator in:


Radiator connected up on the oil side - this one was very fiddly, and it is still not perfect. Took us 3 tries, some filing away on the airbox leg, bending of the ac pipe (you can see one of the problem points in the top right corner)


How we've installed the AT cooler core:

[ysu]

Hm....I'm currently contemplating where to put the ATF hose through.

With the new radiator, getting it up into the engine bay is a bit of a challenge, and besides there's a perfectly good space going all the way along the engine...but I need to figure out if it will be safe there and if I can actually attach the hose somehow to the tyre well wall to avoid it touching the engine. Otherwise it's a very neat way I reckon.

Edit:

this is how I can run it underneath looking at it from the front. It is that nice new-looking black one that hangs down near the lower end of the picture

[Sarsippius]

Looks ok but yeah it doesn't look like there's really anywhere to zip tie it. Maybe because I still had the bumper and that on but I couldn't really find anywhere around the bottom of the radiator to get the hose into the engine bay. If need be I don't see why you couldn't route the same way I did.

Anyway glad to see you've got the new Rad all installed and almost back on the road.

I've been a bit quiet as we've moved into our new house and then went overseas for 3 weeks. Everything seems to be all fine with my car, the new o2 sensor worked fine and I've been running one of Wayno's Stg2 UEL E85 tunes. I just haven't had a chance to do any logging to confirm everything's good.

The header has definitely made a big improvement, I think you said it before the extra torque all through the range and getting rid of the dip also really helps. I was trying to quantify things a bit, individually a tune, E85 and a header are supposed to gain around 10whp each. For me with just the tune I noticed some differences but couldn't really feel much or any improvement in power or torque, so lets say hypothetically I gained about 5whp. Going to E85 was a definite and noticeable boost so lets say it felt like a 15whp improvement in comparison, the header felt like very much the same like another 15whp again. The numbers don't mean much but are just to illustrate the differences. If you try E85 I think you should expect to feel almost as much as an improvement as when you put on the header + tune.

I now feel quite satisfied with the car and reckon this is how it should come from the factory, it's not a massive difference but it really changes the feel of the car, I can imagine the manual would feel even better with this amount of power.

[ysu]

Thanks, I'm still on the fence with the E85 option, as it'll be a pain in the arse to refuel for track days...besides I still haven't been to the drags to measure the current performance (I want to do that at least now with the header + tune).

With the hose run: I've found these holes on the body, they'd be perfect. If I had some way of plugging some clamp into it. Their diameter is 18mm, so quite big.
I'm sure things like these exists, I just need to find one. I saw a couple of clamps that I'm 99% uses those holes eg this one (brake lines IIRC).



Maybe official Toyota can help me out?

If I can't find a clamp to fit these holes, alternative is to drill a smaller hole next to one of the big ones, but due to the cramped space it'll be a challenge...
Therefore the other solution is indeed to run it up and down like you did.

[ysu]

oh, I think I know what will I put into those holes.
This spring anchor. What do you think? Then put a metal plate on the front, a hose clip on the end, and we're good!

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-3-16 ... k_p2261026

[Sarsippius]

I could see something like that working if there's enough tension, the bolts might be a bit long though. I assume where you've routed the hoses you've checked that you can fit everything back on ok, the front skid plates etc?

[ysu]

Check the earlier photo, 5 posts up, the hose is very nice and snug next to the engine - no problem with the bottom plates.
The bolts' length indeed maybe an issue, I've thought about that so I'll have to go and measure the depth available but they look to be a fair bit.

by the way I've realised I'd have a serious problem routing it up to the engine bay, as the new radiator has 2 extra hoses there, which all twist around next to the air intake box - the space is all but gone there. Look:



(The red arrow is to illustrate a rubbing point - I've yet to work out how to alleviate that problem. I'm not very keen to try and bend the ac pipe on that short run there)

[Sarsippius]

This mostly shows where I routed the hoses, there is a cavity there which I don't think you could have blocked off as it's kinda separate to the engine bay, basically straight under the wiper washer bottle.

With the AC hose I assume that's because you had to bend it a bit already to get the rad in, I'm not real sure about it, if you know a mechanic or ac guy I'd ask them where or how to bend it out of the way a bit.

[ysu]

Ah with the AC hose: indeed, it's due to the new radiator & a bit of bending - but we bent it along a much longer stretch (to fit the top oil connector of the new radiator), and now I'd have to bend it on a much shorter section. Scary shit. I don't want to brake it.
I'm in contact with CSG, I'm hoping they'll help me out there.

Thanks for that photo, now I see where you got the hose up, that run is still clear indeed. I'll try the bottom route first, I've bought the spring clamps & p-clamps I need, they'll be here on monday. If that fails, this will certainly work!

P.s. had a quick look at the tranny yesternight in preparation. I'm confused.
Where the hell are the overflow & the fluid level check bolts? Can you describe it from memory?
I'll have to find some good diagrams/photos showing it...

I'll also have to review your posts regarding the hose connections - you know, which hose goes where.

I feel like a dummy. I'm lacking a lot of experience with cars here.

[Sarsippius]

With those clamps you should be able to buy shorter bolts, I'd assume they're a standard size and thread.

With the AT there are two bolts, the fill one on the left side (passenger side) about half way up. The drain/overflow plug is on the bottom pan about mid way along, hard to miss but you will need some of those allen head sockets for both bolts.

The thing that can be confusing is the drain/overflow is sometimes referred to the drain plug or the overflow plug, even in the manual they will switch between the terms. The thing to realise is that inside the transmission there is a vertical tube of a specific height that extends from this drain/overflow hole. When you drain the fluid there will still always be a significant amount of fluid left in the pan below the tip of the tube, this is by design. At rest the fluid all drains into the pan allowing you to drain a significant portion, when doing the level check procedure your getting the fluid to the right temp and ensuring the fluid is worked into all the various areas of the AT so that when you drain the fluid at the end you're left with the correct level.

Hope this helps. Just remember try to start from cold, as you know with this car it can take hours for things to cool down. If you start the level check procedure and the temp is too high you'll have to leave it to cool right down and start again.

[ysu]

Many thanks, Sarsi, I'll have another look at the bolts down there - that inner pipe is a nasty one, I did not expect that (interesting design, but I can see the reason)

WRT clamps: I've bought extra m5 bolts - shorter ones - and 3 sets of washers all different sizes to counter-set it on the outside, I can stack them from the 18mm hole to the m5 bolt head

[ysu]

Can I just double check this with you?

#1 - fill (this isn't allen key, it's a 24mm hex, but the only bolt I've seen on the side there)
#2 - overflow (allen key, luckily small enough so I have got one in my set)
#3 - nfi (could this be the missing drain plug - if they indeed refer to it separately...?)

[Sarsippius]

I think you have the numbers mixed up?? They're a bit small to be sure in the pic but I think you have 1 & 2 mixed around. No. 2 in the pic is the fill hole and yes I remember now you can use a normal wrench on that. Note Subaru didn't have any o-rings for that so I just reused it. No. 1 in the pic is the drain/overflow, an allen key might not have enough leverage to undo that one, I picked up a set of metric sockets. This one I'm pretty sure has a crush washer which I replaced at the time.
No. 3 I don't know but I'm pretty sure it's not a drain plug.

[ysu]

You're right, now that I review it...
I meant to write 1 - overflow, 2 - fill. Thanks!

And thanks for the tip on the allen key!


by the way; I've found where my oil temp reading is gone - Wayno managed to "tune it out" at some point before. I've pointed this out to him on FB and very nicely asked him if he could please put it back.
He said no way he'd go back and it's useless anyway for logging, because of the upgrade frequency. I've then pointed out that if you want to record the session & log via one app on one device via one obd adapter (in this case obdLink LX) then you've no options.
He just told me to do it myself. I've nfi what to to but Wayno is starting to piss me off with his endless arrogance. He maybe good, but he's a prick.

I'm really thinking going delicious tuning and selling this stupid OFT, there are reports of OFT themselves being kinda pricks, too, so it maybe a good riddance - the trouble is, delicious does not do Ron98 as far as i know.

So all in all: I can't log now and record; I'll have to just record in obdLink with a hacked PID, which is ok, but there will be no videos

[crimespree]

Lol. Wayne is not a tuner.


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[ysu]

Lol. Wayne is not a tuner.


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You're probably right, but he knows a lot more about tweaking tunes than I do.
He seems to have done a good job on the tune except he somehow over-written this part back a while ago.

I'd love to go to a proper tuner if I could ensure two things:
1) a way to undo the tune just in case (i.e. some open tune, not a locked one)
2) a known decent tuner nearby

[Sarsippius]

So what is the problem exactly? The phone app you use for recording your laps used to read your oil temp but it doesn't anymore but other apps can still read the oil temp?

Because I stuffed up before I didn't work out if RaceChrono reads the oil temp properly but I tested last night and Torque reads it fine as it did before flashing Wayno's tune.

[ysu]

So what is the problem exactly? The phone app you use for recording your laps used to read your oil temp but it doesn't anymore but other apps can still read the oil temp?

Because I stuffed up before I didn't work out if RaceChrono reads the oil temp properly but I tested last night and Torque reads it fine as it did before flashing Wayno's tune.

Wayno's old tune had the stock oil temp. But since then he tweaked the tunes - quite a few iterations - and he managed to lose the reporting of the stock oil temp.
Therefore now there is no oil temp in Harry's nor in RaceChrono. I can "hack" another oil temp PID in, but this can only be done in OBDlink (app) and Torque (which is somewhat better I think). Neither of these can record video, they are simply data viewers/loggers.

So my choice is now to either log oil temps, or record video - won't be able to do both. And I want to know my oil temps very much, I've just installed my radiator, right?

One solution maybe to buy a splitter OBD cable, but it's questionable if it's a good idea to have 2 devices simultaneously connected to the OBD port. If they're only reading it maybe ok...

[Sarsippius]

Hmm maybe there were two PIDs for the same thing, I admit I don't know much about it all but I figured other apps were reading the same PID that Torque was, just that you had to manually input the values into Torque. Maybe if you talk to the dev for RaceChrono he might add in the PID that Torque uses.