Converting my biiiisickle.

[Santaria]

I read somewhere (can't remember where, but it was on ARSE) about Norbs "converting" his bike. At the moment, by Trek 3500 is set pretty standard with a decent upright position, but to go faster I'd assume I'd have to make my seating more aggressive? It's a 21". A road bicycle isn't an option, 5k's of my road is tar, but the other 15-20k is dirt, hills, potholes and ruts. Not to mention my driveway would destroy a roady before I got to the bottom. Is there a way to convert the bike I have into something a bit more suitable to punch out 20k's on?

I was checking out average speeds the other day between the ones that are available on Runkeeper/Bikejournal and it seems that places with similar elevations changes, people are 10-15 more than me on average. I know my average speed will pick up a bit, but I can't see it picking up that much.

Sorry for the stupid questions, but I want to really have a good crack at this, I haven't been this interested in anything that promoted fitness since I was a little tacker until 16-17 when I used to play soccer pretty much non-stop. So I want to make sure I'm doing it right and I'm up to "speed" with what I should be and I haven't a clue if I am, lol. Getting into the 50mil meters thing was just the ticket I needed. Not to mention all the others that have helped since I started getting into it.

[CLP]

I read somewhere (can't remember where, but it was on ARSE) about Norbs "converting" his bike. At the moment, by Trek 3500 is set pretty standard with a decent upright position, but to go faster I'd assume I'd have to make my seating more aggressive? It's a 21". A road bicycle isn't an option, 5k's of my road is tar, but the other 15-20k is dirt, hills, potholes and ruts. Not to mention my driveway would destroy a roady before I got to the bottom. Is there a way to convert the bike I have into something a bit more suitable to punch out 20k's on?

i guess the first question is what are your ideas on the conversion? I'm thinking that there are pretty severe limitations put on the potential upgrades given the surfaces you are describing. Then again, it sounds like it might be good training for the Paris-Roubaix just sayin'

I was checking out average speeds the other day between the ones that are available on Runkeeper/Bikejournal and it seems that places with similar elevations changes, people are 10-15 more than me on average. I know my average speed will pick up a bit, but I can't see it picking up that much.

what is your average now? and what are you trying to get to? and are you comparing similar style riding? (ie offroad will almost always be slower than on road)

Your question is pretty open ended, so a basic answer would:
1) reduce bicycle weight, particularly rotating mass (eg wheels, tyres, pedals).
2) reduce rider weight (this will probably happen anyway so you will continually improve)
3) A more aggressive position on the bike might be accomplished by flipping the stem which would give you a lower frontal profile and so you would be more aero (assuming you are riding fast enough to need that!)
4) Consider a clipless pedal system and shoes to give you a more efficient power transfer

while i don't know the area you ride in, you could always consider a Cross country road bike.. they're pretty quick and rugged at the same time

hope that is of moderate help!

Cheers,
CLP

[w00dsy]

you'll pick up more speed from your body i think than you will from changing bikes or parts. I went from a mountain bike to a road flatty and even though it was nicer to ride i didn't pick up much speed, that just came from getting fitter and lighter. I find now my speeds are more consistent over my full ride and i feel fresher at the end than i used to. Plus it's now done over a longer distance, my regular ride was 22km's and now i've extended it to about 31km's. In fact some of my quickest riding happens within the last 3km's of my home because the roads are smoother and i'm still feeling good after about 80mins. You'll drop weight and your legs with get a lot more powerful and you'll just one day be a few kph quicker on your average. Mine slowly went up from 21kph, to 22-23-24 and i'm almost into the 25's. A better bike or parts is always easier to ride but i've noticed the biggest difference coming out of me.

[w00dsy]

looking at your runkeeper you can see the speed picking up, there are your rides.

16.01
16.76
17.76
18.57
16.32 but that was more than twice the distance than the others.
19.49
18.83


you've picked up more than 3kph in less than 2 weeks. That's pretty farkin excellent.


edit: i just calculated that at that rate of improvement your average speeds by the end of the year will be 154kph

[CLP]

edit: i just calculated that at that rate of improvement your average speeds by the end of the year will be 154kph

i think you need to step away from the calculator....

[w00dsy]

i think i do, it's actually 86kph. I thought the original speed was unrealistic.

[DarrenM]

Were those other people you were looking at riding on dirt as well? Most of mine have only been around 21kph and that's all on road and tar/concrete cycle paths.

If the dirt is a hard packed/gravel road then some slicks or semi slicks would be fine in my opinion. They'll make it easier to get up hills.

You can get some pretty cheap ones if you want to keep the cost down.
http://www.avantiplus.com.au/products/KE040N812" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you often encounter loose dirt/sand/mud/clay then I'd probably stick with the knobbies or get a treaded tyre with a solid centerline.

http://www.cellbikes.com.au/p_2208_Cont ... gory=12712" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I do have my seat up higher than where I used to have it for off road, but the seat position and tyres are the only thing I've changed on mine. I wouldn't mind some pedal clips though.

[Santaria]

Were those other people you were looking at riding on dirt as well? Most of mine have only been around 21kph and that's all on road and tar/concrete cycle paths.

If the dirt is a hard packed/gravel road then some slicks or semi slicks would be fine in my opinion. They'll make it easier to get up hills.

You can get some pretty cheap ones if you want to keep the cost down.
http://www.avantiplus.com.au/products/KE040N812" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you often encounter loose dirt/sand/mud/clay then I'd probably stick with the knobbies or get a treaded tyre with a solid centerline.

http://www.cellbikes.com.au/p_2208_Cont ... gory=12712" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I do have my seat up higher than where I used to have it for off road, but the seat position and tyres are the only thing I've changed on mine. I wouldn't mind some pedal clips though.

I might take up the advice on the treaded tyre with a solid centerline. My weekday ride (soon to make it every day) is 35-40mins, 10k's. 2k's of that is gravel/loose dirt/mud. The weekend ride I want to take is 25ish k's and it's 5k tar, the rest gravel/mud/ruts etc etc.

A higher seat would provide better push?

I find the hardest part for me is the first 5mins and getting past that dull leg ache, after that, the rest is pretty cruisey and as w00dsy said about himself, downtime afterwards I feel excellent and the "huffing and puffing" is getting shorter.

[DarrenM]

A higher seat would provide better push?

I'm sure the pro's can give a better answer but I think if you extend your leg further then you'll be using all the muscles in your leg more effectively. If your legs are always bent like you're on a big BMX then you aren't going to be making much use of your quads etc.

If your weekend ride is bush walking track/single trail type stuff then you're probably better off sticking with the knobby tyres.

[w00dsy]

A higher seat would provide better push?

i think you need to have your seat set so at full length your leg is almost straight. That made a big difference for me. You get a lot more power.

[mrleisure]

Here's a bit of info about correct saddle height .

http://www.ehow.co.uk/video_4987396_det ... -bike.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;