PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - Build Time!
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- DexterPunk
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - Build Time!
Hey Knappo, what monitors are you using??
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - Build Time!
LG's 27EA63V-P 27in LED IPS Widescreen Monitors
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- Duke
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - Build Time!
Decided I needed a proper button box as the keyboard is too hard & far away in the rig, went with one of the DSD P1's as I needed it to be SFF.
http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/p1p2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/p1p2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
SPECS: P1 - 6-two way toggles, 4 pushbuttons, 4-two way rotary encoders, 1 FVS Lighted Button
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - Build Time!
Come on Duke, you could make one for the price of a few coffees.
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showt ... ?t=1078636" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showt ... ?t=1078636" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Sarc ; my second favourite type of gasm.
- Duke
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - Build Time!
Na I looked into all the DIY's & to be honest by the time you buy everything & then add time to make it I don't think there's much diff in price.
Let alone the arse pain of getting one configured & working how you want. Plus I'd never make one as good looking as a DSD.
Let alone the arse pain of getting one configured & working how you want. Plus I'd never make one as good looking as a DSD.
Dukester
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - Build Time!
I agree that sometimes the time and effort is more than you want to put in. I did want to put time into a button box though, so I made one out of a Logitech joystick. Here's the relevant post over at MNR:
http://www.ozbee-racing.com/phpbb/viewt ... 442#p87442" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.ozbee-racing.com/phpbb/viewt ... 442#p87442" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- KNAPPO
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - Build Time!
I've waited patiently till my 2015 annual bonus came by and add held onto last years tax return to do something about that old G25.TIMMY30 wrote:...with a cockpit and a pc like that. What are you doing with a logitech wheel haha. Definately get some fanatec gear. Well worth it!
As soon as this weeks FNF finished I started installing a set of Fanatec V2 pedals, V2 base and paired that with the Porsche 918 RSR wheel rim.
Had my first real run last night and obviously it was a massive step up!
I joined a mate playing iRacing (GT3's around Sebring) and thought why not, it had been 6 months and I just got Monza free on unused credits and I was curious to drive a laser scanned full circuit.
Sebring being the track it is was brutal on my G25, well it was ultra smooth with the Fanatec to the point it felt wrong. 10-15 mins later I bailed to try AC.
HOLY SHIT. Assetto was alive!!! I hadnt started fine tuning the settings cos it felt pretty dam good ou the box but I might have to. After about 2 hours I was knackered!
The load cell brake is the hardest part for me to acclimatise to, you need to jump on it so dam hard. I jumped on a Tourist version of Nords and was shit house for about 30 mins whilst I adjust to breaking. My first 2 attempts were fast for the times in the server but they were invalid. I jelled with the brake and got on with it, 3rd attempt I was fastest in the server by 6.8secs so was happy with my progress with the new stop pedal.
Now I need to find some thin soled shoes...
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
I hate you Knappo. That is all.
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
Hi knapp. Nice stuff!
I found with those pedals I had to run a firmware update to get the break sensitivity up. Even with the sensitivity knob right up I felt I had to mash the break way too hard. From memory that update fixed it.
I found with those pedals I had to run a firmware update to get the break sensitivity up. Even with the sensitivity knob right up I felt I had to mash the break way too hard. From memory that update fixed it.
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Re:
I'm undecided about the shifter, wether to stay with Fanatec's or get something else. Right now I'm not missing it and have some change from the wheel purchase so I'm shopping about.Duke wrote:Awesome KNAPPO.
No H-shifter then???
Load cell FTW... It just takes a few drives to get the muscle memory then you'll be right.
I want to get a pair of cheap go karting shoes first. I've always used bare feet or socks but that hurts after a while with the load cell. My sneakers are too thick and socks are slippery as all hell.
Thanks mate, I'll give that a go I reckon. I was jumping on the anchors to what I thought was enough and in about half a second realised I wasn't going to stop in time and had to add more pressure. Felt like I had to double the amount of force at times. Adds to the pucker factor lol.DexterPunk wrote:I found with those pedals I had to run a firmware update to get the break sensitivity up
Love you too mateRighteous wrote:I hate you Knappo. That is all.
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
Awesome mate! How you find time to go near it with three kids I'll never know, though. I get half an hour of play a month with only one kid to worry about!
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Unless every now and then it sticks on 100%... *sigh* Bloody Fanatec! (this is with the CSR Elite Pedals). On top of that, if I leave my pedals plugged into the USB port for long periods (e.g. days) then the pedals start to spike like crazy.Duke wrote:Load cell FTW... It just takes a few drives to get the muscle memory then you'll be right.
Not to mention when I use the shifter my wheel disconnects every now and then (usually when down shifting)...
So lately (unless it's FNF) I've been using the clutch pedal as my brake (and thankfully Assetto Corsa allows you to save controller profiles).
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Knappo, call into Lightning Karts when you have a chance, tell them PB sent you and they'll look after you (or kick you straight out the door, not sure which )KNAPPO wrote:I want to get a pair of cheap go karting shoes first.
PB
Radioactive Race Engineering #16 / Lightning Karts KT100s #61
Radioactive Race Engineering #16 / Lightning Karts KT100s #61
- KNAPPO
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
It can get tricky. Usually when the kids go to bed I chuck a late night.Exar Kun wrote:Awesome mate! How you find time to go near it with three kids I'll never know, though. I get half an hour of play a month with only one kid to worry about!
The Mrs goes to sleep pretty early so on most nights I can manage 3 hours seat time before I drag myself into the sack. I have to be careful on weekends because I have been known to slide into bed at 2am and If i get busted the wife will nominate me for the 6am wake up...
Excellent mate. I was gonna drop you a SMS today and ask where was a good place to go as I want to be able to try them on. Was thinking of lightning karts as its not far away from work and I can do it in a lunch break.pab wrote:Knappo, call into Lightning Karts when you have a chance, tell them PB sent you and they'll look after you (or kick you straight out the door, not sure which )
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
The Clubsport Shifter SQ is great. Lets you toggle between h-pattern and sequential. I've only used the logitech ones before and they're like cheap toys in comparison. I guess you'd have to make your own mount to go in that cockpit?
In iRacing with fanatec wheels you need to put min force up to 15-20 in the game settings. Also make sure the ffb strength isn't so high that you're clipping. I use 12-15 for most cars with the wheel set to 100%. There's a parameter in one of the ini's to control the amount of smoothing if you need to tweak it further. They model power steering as well so if you like it rough, try the old Dallara, the L49 or the legends car. In AC set all the effects sliders to zero or it's just silly. With adjusted settings I don't find the FFB to be all that different between the 2 sims.
How are you finding the larger diameter rim? I have the BMW rim and the formula rim. I've only used the BMW rim a handful of times because it's too big. The V1 base is too weak for it as well which doesn't help. I wouldn't mind one that's 1/2 way between the 2.
In iRacing with fanatec wheels you need to put min force up to 15-20 in the game settings. Also make sure the ffb strength isn't so high that you're clipping. I use 12-15 for most cars with the wheel set to 100%. There's a parameter in one of the ini's to control the amount of smoothing if you need to tweak it further. They model power steering as well so if you like it rough, try the old Dallara, the L49 or the legends car. In AC set all the effects sliders to zero or it's just silly. With adjusted settings I don't find the FFB to be all that different between the 2 sims.
How are you finding the larger diameter rim? I have the BMW rim and the formula rim. I've only used the BMW rim a handful of times because it's too big. The V1 base is too weak for it as well which doesn't help. I wouldn't mind one that's 1/2 way between the 2.
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
Thanks heaps Darren. This week im planning on spending some time tweaking software settings so your iRacing tips will make a good start. I reckon its a bit heavy in AC and iRacing is defiantly clipping.
The Obutto has a universal shifter mount which I was using for my G25 shifter but I took it off so I have options on how to climb out of the bloody thing. Itll go back in when I hook up another shifter.
I was worried about the rim diameter but I got on top of that pretty quickly, the v2 base is plenty strong enough. My arms are a little sore from Saturday and Sundays driving.
I did a run at the Nords Tourist config and was lost at sea for a while. By the time I had 45 mins down I was fastest in the sever by 7 seconds. Im finding the brake is the hardest part to get on top of atm.
The Obutto has a universal shifter mount which I was using for my G25 shifter but I took it off so I have options on how to climb out of the bloody thing. Itll go back in when I hook up another shifter.
I was worried about the rim diameter but I got on top of that pretty quickly, the v2 base is plenty strong enough. My arms are a little sore from Saturday and Sundays driving.
I did a run at the Nords Tourist config and was lost at sea for a while. By the time I had 45 mins down I was fastest in the sever by 7 seconds. Im finding the brake is the hardest part to get on top of atm.
Life is hard...but, life is harder when you're dumb.
- Duke
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
I have a Thrusmaster TH8-RS shifter which feels great & is very solid. Although switching between h & seq shift is a bit of a PITA & takes about 4-5mins.
The FANATEC SQ shifter looks sweet & as Darren said is a simple slide to switch between H & Seq shifting.
It looks like you maybe sorted for race shoes but I intend to grab some of these once my moccasins blow-out.
http://www.fasttracksims.com/sim-racing-shoes/ or if you need something thicker http://www.fasttracksims.com/rubber-sol ... cing-shoe/
The FANATEC SQ shifter looks sweet & as Darren said is a simple slide to switch between H & Seq shifting.
It looks like you maybe sorted for race shoes but I intend to grab some of these once my moccasins blow-out.
http://www.fasttracksims.com/sim-racing-shoes/ or if you need something thicker http://www.fasttracksims.com/rubber-sol ... cing-shoe/
Dukester
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
Still toying with a new wheel/pedals , Looking at the 911GT2/Elite combo which seems like a good deal or a Thrustmaster TS500 which is not cheap at all .
Looking at the reviews seems like theres some quality issues with the Fanatec is that the case ? I know that Darin dude from SRT hates Fanatec but I think he has some agenda.
Looking at the reviews seems like theres some quality issues with the Fanatec is that the case ? I know that Darin dude from SRT hates Fanatec but I think he has some agenda.
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
Knappo, I have the Fanatec SQ shifter. I'd recommend it. Apparently they revised the construction of the guts of it a little while back to make it a little more robust. Just beware that it's pretty bulky. It's as if they got their design cues for the shifter straight from Minecraft.
Astro, get in touch with their support people. They may be able to help you out if it's a problem with the wheel/shifter/pedals. They normally ask that you send them a little video of the issue occuring. The disconnects sound to me like a power supply or USB issue, but wouldn't rule out a dodgy connection inside the peripherals. Can you connect it up to another PC to see if you get the same issues?
Astro, get in touch with their support people. They may be able to help you out if it's a problem with the wheel/shifter/pedals. They normally ask that you send them a little video of the issue occuring. The disconnects sound to me like a power supply or USB issue, but wouldn't rule out a dodgy connection inside the peripherals. Can you connect it up to another PC to see if you get the same issues?
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
if (user.Cursed || you.care.AstrOsWheelIssues) { //Cursed wrote:Astro, get in touch with their support people. They may be able to help you out if it's a problem with the wheel/shifter/pedals. They normally ask that you send them a little video of the issue occuring. The disconnects sound to me like a power supply or USB issue, but wouldn't rule out a dodgy connection inside the peripherals. Can you connect it up to another PC to see if you get the same issues?
The same thing happens when connected to my laptop. However, this is already a replacement wheel for the one that originally died...
Haven't been able to catch the current issue on film yet, will try tonight (if I get some time). Although I'm kind of over it now.
I think the disconnection bug is the fault of a dodge internal USB connection, brought about when the wheel base flexes under load while only being controlled by one hand (e.g. when down shifting and my right hand holding the wheel and left is changing gears).
} else {
}
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Re: PC Gaming Rig Build - New toys.
My csw had an issue where the ffb would cut out and sometimes the wheel would completely reset when turning left. Eventually it ended up doing exactly the same thing as that video.
I found the fault was the ribbon cable that connects the quick release hub to the PCB in the base. Some of the wires had broken their connection from the back of the plug. They were all held in place by a lump of glue so I was able to just resolder them and it's been fine since then. I also added some extra tape to make sure the connections aren't being twisted when the wheel rotates which is what would have caused the issue in the first place.
I found the fault was the ribbon cable that connects the quick release hub to the PCB in the base. Some of the wires had broken their connection from the back of the plug. They were all held in place by a lump of glue so I was able to just resolder them and it's been fine since then. I also added some extra tape to make sure the connections aren't being twisted when the wheel rotates which is what would have caused the issue in the first place.