My dishlex dishwasher starts then goes to a flashing mode after a short time. It is the fast light that flashes. Research says it is an inlet issue. The inlet filter is clear, the inlet hose is clear and a little white box I read about that fills with crap was crap less.
Any thoughts or do I go buy a new one?
It could be 2 things Baz:
1. Inlet solenoid is cactus
2. Main PCB is cactus.
I'll need to know the model to be able to give you a proper idea. If it's the solenoid, they're piss easy to change but you will have to near half dismantle the outer casing to get there an it'll be around $45-$60 for the part. If it's a main PCB (that's what I'm guessing) they're really easy to change (just unplug and plug back in after undoing the front panel) and depending on your model, starts at around $150 for the Dishlex's.
I need help please .I have a fisher and paykel E442B fridge.My auto defroster burnt out.It burnt out the connection to my fridge as well.There are these little silver ends that are on the end of the wire and clip in the plug .Where do i find these? Arghhhhhh.
kells wrote:I need help please .I have a fisher and paykel E442B fridge.My auto defroster burnt out.It burnt out the connection to my fridge as well.There are these little silver ends that are on the end of the wire and clip in the plug .Where do i find these? Arghhhhhh.
I don't really understand what you mean, sorry. You mean the power plug is burnt out and now it is stuck in defrost? Can you explain what actually has happened?
I have a Whirlpool fridge, medium size, about 8 years old or so. About a year ago it started to freeze things in the main fridge. I haven't taken much notice as it's been a second fridge but now I'd like to use it as my main fridge. It doesn't freeze things immediately but over a couple of days and changing the thermostat only takes it from this situation to freezing things immediately. Do you think it's worth getting someone to look at it? It's not really big enough so we'll need to replace it eventually but wanted to get away with it for now if it wasn't going to cost too much to keep going.
I have a Whirlpool fridge, medium size, about 8 years old or so. About a year ago it started to freeze things in the main fridge. I haven't taken much notice as it's been a second fridge but now I'd like to use it as my main fridge. It doesn't freeze things immediately but over a couple of days and changing the thermostat only takes it from this situation to freezing things immediately. Do you think it's worth getting someone to look at it? It's not really big enough so we'll need to replace it eventually but wanted to get away with it for now if it wasn't going to cost too much to keep going.
Cheers
Electronic or manual control on the thermostat mate?
P.s. Had a brainstorm with the oldman: If it's a side-by-side, then there's a flap that separates the 2 compartments (most likely) and that could be jambed open. If it's a Freezer on top/bottom, there may very well still be a flap between them (being a W/Pool) failing that, either the motor FOR the flap (if it exists) is dead, or the thermostat is faulty.
It's manual control. I'll check that a bit later and let you know. I thought if it was the thermostat it would have burnt the motor out as it would just be one all the time but the compressor seems to cut in and out. Thanks heaps mate
Vilante wrote:It's manual control. I'll check that a bit later and let you know. I thought if it was the thermostat it would have burnt the motor out as it would just be one all the time but the compressor seems to cut in and out. Thanks heaps mate
Thermostat controls how often the fan from the freezer is on, as well as the motor. Try a new thermostat and make sure you get the hour type right. There's 6/8/12/16's available.
Im about to start renovating my first house, and im in the process of buying an oven and cooktop, any brands worth looking out for? im on a bit of a budget and found some ceramic cooktops & Ovens from Chef & Westinghouse... any particular features that are worth looking for?
While im at it, any air-conditioning brands worth looking at as well? im only after a small one, around 1.5kW... i want to avoid a daikin one, as the service for them around here is pretty hopeless
9ra55h0ppaH wrote:Oh Oracle of white-goods and appliances...
Im about to start renovating my first house, and im in the process of buying an oven and cooktop, any brands worth looking out for? im on a bit of a budget and found some ceramic cooktops & Ovens from Chef & Westinghouse... any particular features that are worth looking for?
While im at it, any air-conditioning brands worth looking at as well? im only after a small one, around 1.5kW... i want to avoid a daikin one, as the service for them around here is pretty hopeless
Check for repair agents before buying something. Westinghouse are a god brand, Chef I thought were still rather expensive. A/C wise, depends on your budget. TCL are cheap and for the most part work really well, but repair agents are few and far between from memory.
Can anyone help me with my 519l FISHER & PAYKEL upside down fridge it's around 5 years old and looks like new, I only just brought it yesterday it got nice and cold when I was looking at it but it only worked for a couple of hours when I got it home now it keeps tripping the cut out switch on the house, I thought I might throw it out there and see if Santa or some one else might know why it's doing it before I go and fork out any $$$.......any help would be appreciated.
Yes it must be it was on the first page when I goggled it, wouldn't believe it rang Fisher & Paykel they couldn't come out to have a look on a Sunday so they said try a different power socket and it's been running for a few hours fingers crossed it might be the socket?
kaz777cars wrote:Yes it must be it was on the first page when I goggled it, wouldn't believe it rang Fisher & Paykel they couldn't come out to have a look on a Sunday so they said try a different power socket and it's been running for a few hours fingers crossed it might be the socket?
It'll be the defrost element. It's more than likely, faulty. That's why it runs great for 5-6 hours then cuts out the power. F&P use contractors to do their work, not someone they employ themselves. You could get a sparky out to have a look at it, but you'll be paying double time.
Ive got a Kelvinator Twin Air / No Frost 380 Upside down fridge and suddenly about a month ago its started to leak water out the bottom and the freezer is filling up with ice in the bottom, I pull it out in sheets.. once ive managed to get the lower freezer drawer out..
I havent adjusted the thermostat at all.. the seals appear to be good..
Ive got a Kelvinator Twin Air / No Frost 380 Upside down fridge and suddenly about a month ago its started to leak water out the bottom and the freezer is filling up with ice in the bottom, I pull it out in sheets.. once ive managed to get the lower freezer drawer out..
I havent adjusted the thermostat at all.. the seals appear to be good..
Any ideas?
All freezers leak water when they go into a defrost, the water then drains down into a tray, then through a drain tube, then sits on a reservoir on the motor which then evaporates with the motor heat. What's more than likely happening is the drain is blocked. It is doable as a DIY job, you just gotta get the backing off from inside the freezer (depending on the model, may even clip in, but most likely have a few screws) and make sure the drain isn't blocked. Also check the seals over and make sure it's got some suction when the door is closed. Easy way to test is when opening the door, a little bit of effort is needed for it to open and the nice "thud" sound is there when it's shutting.
I've taken out the screws but its stuck with a big chunk of ice down the bottom in what I assume is the first tray..
Need to get that defrosted before I can go further.. will have to wait as I cant just turn the thing off
I think you've nailed the problem!
Thanks again..
Santaria wrote:
All freezers leak water when they go into a defrost, the water then drains down into a tray, then through a drain tube, then sits on a reservoir on the motor which then evaporates with the motor heat. What's more than likely happening is the drain is blocked. It is doable as a DIY job, you just gotta get the backing off from inside the freezer (depending on the model, may even clip in, but most likely have a few screws) and make sure the drain isn't blocked. Also check the seals over and make sure it's got some suction when the door is closed. Easy way to test is when opening the door, a little bit of effort is needed for it to open and the nice "thud" sound is there when it's shutting.
The fridge tec came out the other day and disconnected the defrost element until he comes back with a new one so Santa you were spot on again, thanks mate.
kaz777cars wrote:The fridge tec came out the other day and disconnected the defrost element until he comes back with a new one so Santa you were spot on again, thanks mate.
That's why I get paid the big bucks to work in the Child Protection sector.... wait... what?
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