A.R.S.E.

Whirlpool AWD60A clothes drier. It still works but the inside doesnt spin. Any idea mate? Cheers

Shaun wrote:Whirlpool AWD60A clothes drier. It still works but the inside doesnt spin. Any idea mate? Cheers

If it's making a motor noise, the belt is broken. If no motor noise it's either the timer or the motor,likely the timer. Again, If there's motor noise, the belts broken. Easy fix.

Sent from my Nexus 5

Yeah motors making noise. Diy fix?

Shaun wrote:Yeah motors making noise. Diy fix?

Yeah dude. Easy as fix. Pop the back off and have a look. Just buy the belt and the rest is piss easy.

Sent from my Nexus 5

Alright cool. Where would i get a belt from lol

Santa, help!

We moved into a new place and the dishwasher seems a bit crappy. It's an Omega. We re getting pulverized food being left behind, mainly on the top of the stuff on the top shelf, bowls and things, but have also noticed it on the plates like the image attached.

Any ideas? Is it dead?

My oldies have the Omega from my new place, they say it is a bit noisy and does the job fine. They don't complain as it was free when there one broke

Shaun wrote:Alright cool. Where would i get a belt from lol

Sorry mate. Any white good parts shop. Don't know any where you are.

Sent from my Nexus 5

Vilante wrote:Santa, help!

We moved into a new place and the dishwasher seems a bit crappy. It's an Omega. We re getting pulverized food being left behind, mainly on the top of the stuff on the top shelf, bowls and things, but have also noticed it on the plates like the image attached.

Any ideas? Is it dead?

IMG_20150630_210520 (1).jpg

One of two things mate: the top spray arm isn't sealing properly against the back of the machine (or the top, can't remember how omega do theirs) or the spray arm doesn't rotate/spray properly because it's not rotating well enough or not enough pressure from being blocked or the main wash pump isn't pushing hard enough.

Just check the top spray arm seals properly against the back (or top) and go from there.

From memory, omega's can leave you out of pocket a bit depending on the parts.

Sent from my Nexus 5

Santaria wrote:

Vilante wrote:Santa, help!

We moved into a new place and the dishwasher seems a bit crappy. It's an Omega. We re getting pulverized food being left behind, mainly on the top of the stuff on the top shelf, bowls and things, but have also noticed it on the plates like the image attached.

Any ideas? Is it dead?

IMG_20150630_210520 (1).jpg

One of two things mate: the top spray arm isn't sealing properly against the back of the machine (or the top, can't remember how omega do theirs) or the spray arm doesn't rotate/spray properly because it's not rotating well enough or not enough pressure from being blocked or the main wash pump isn't pushing hard enough.

Just check the top spray arm seals properly against the back (or top) and go from there.

From memory, omega's can leave you out of pocket a bit depending on the parts.

Sent from my Nexus 5

Awesome, thank you mate! Wlll check tonight.

Hi all,

We've just purchased a new Ariston free-standing cooker and are getting ready for installation. Does anyone know where to find the "rating plate" so we can determine what its electrical connection requirements are (e.g. do I need a 10Amp or 15Amp socket/circuit)?

Thanks.

Montey wrote:Hi all,

We've just purchased a new Ariston free-standing cooker and are getting ready for installation. Does anyone know where to find the "rating plate" so we can determine what its electrical connection requirements are (e.g. do I need a 10Amp or 15Amp socket/circuit)?

Thanks.

Nothing online Monty?

Pretty sure the 900mm free standing thing we bought had it in the manual.

There is nothing in the manual.....

As always seems to be the case with such things, minutes after I submitted that post I found a reference on a 'features & benefits' PDF on their website that says it is 230V-240V/50Hz/12.39A. So I think I found my answer on what it wants electrically.

But, it has caused another question....

My old oven was 100% gas (I hate it, I hate it, I hate it!!!!). It did. however, have an electrical connection for the igniters, the rotisserie, and the light. I suspect that the wall plug, where the old oven was plugged in, is probably only a 10Amp socket/circuit.... so.... am I going to have to get an electrician in to rewire that plug/circuit for 15Amps?

Montey wrote:There is nothing in the manual.....

As always seems to be the case with such things, minutes after I submitted that post I found a reference on a 'features & benefits' PDF on their website that says it is 230V-240V/50Hz/12.39A. So I think I found my answer on what it wants electrically.

But, it has caused another question....

My old oven was 100% gas (I hate it, I hate it, I hate it!!!!). It did. however, have an electrical connection for the igniters, the rotisserie, and the light. I suspect that the wall plug, where the old oven was plugged in, is probably only a 10Amp socket/circuit.... so.... am I going to have to get an electrician in to rewire that plug/circuit for 15Amps?

technically, yes. How old is your house?

or you could do it. Just be aware the earth prong on the wall socket is bigger for 15A sockets from memory. And make sure you up the breaker/fuse. And if you ever have a fire, dont tell insurance it was you.

Probably best to get a sparkie in.

Yeah, that's what I feared. The oven actually comes without a plug attached (just bare wire), but yeah, I suspect this just got more expensive than me attaching a 10Amp plug to the wire.

Thanks Norbs.

From memory, if it's a proper range (oven & cooktop), it will need to have a 6mm cable run back to the board. So you won't be able to use the standard 2.5mm cable that would have been used as the plug for the gas igniter.

It shouldn't cost too much

Back in the day when I was a sparky an electric oven used to be wired using 4 or 6 mm2 depending on the length of the cable run and it's own 30 amp circuit breaker. A single 20 amp circuit (2.5mm2 cable) on it's own would do for the current needs of this unit, I wouldn't stick a 15 amp socket on an existing socket there otherwise whenever the oven is on and you decide to boil the kettle it will probably trip the breaker for that circuit with them most likely being on the same circuit.

Sparky came in and we did a load test (temporarily applied a 10Amp plug and used an ammeter to verify) and it confirmed it was drawing up to 13amps (when on full crank). So we now have a new circuit on a 20Amp breaker with an isolation switch.

The whole installation of the new oven cost about 40% of the actual oven retail price. It is what it is, but not what I expected.

Montey wrote:Sparky came in and we did a load test (temporarily applied a 10Amp plug and used an ammeter to verify) and it confirmed it was drawing up to 13amps (when on full crank). So we now have a new circuit on a 20Amp breaker with an isolation switch.

The whole installation of the new oven cost about 40% of the actual oven retail price. It is what it is, but not what I expected.

Most electricians charge hard. $90/hour for 1 here.

norbs wrote:

Montey wrote:Sparky came in and we did a load test (temporarily applied a 10Amp plug and used an ammeter to verify) and it confirmed it was drawing up to 13amps (when on full crank). So we now have a new circuit on a 20Amp breaker with an isolation switch.

The whole installation of the new oven cost about 40% of the actual oven retail price. It is what it is, but not what I expected.

Most electricians charge hard. $90/hour for 1 here.

Overheads drive prices. We used to charge $100 an hour 7 years ago and we were the cheapest by about $20. Licensing and insurance is expensive. Not to mention the risk of death is much higher.

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I must be a right bastard because I am charging $160/hr as a low voltage sparky. $70-$90 seems to be about right though for any on site work.

c.j wrote:I must be a right bastard because I am charging $160/hr as a low voltage sparky. $70-$90 seems to be about right though for any on site work.

You charge what you can get away with.

My company has just boosted its engineering hourly rate to $300/hr and our consultants will be more like $400/hr (+GST)