A.R.S.E.

After deciding to jump into the online v8supercar series Ive decided its actually time for me to get off my ass and become more of a complete driver. With how competititve it is im also looking for that competitive advantage as i feel that my races are being hampered by a lack of experience with the car adjustments.

So basically im looking for some advice on what i should be doing from the start to the end of a stint in car to keep my car in the sweet spot.

My particular interest is in the v8supercar atm as its the championship i intend to focus on but im also interested in conquering the different adjustments available on cars like the Williams, Acura corvette etc.

Also as a person who has focussed entirely on driving and having never made a controller adjustment i wouldnt mind some advice on controller settings.

I have a logitech G25, as far as im aware the only setting i have ever modified in game on it is to have the wheel lock reduced to 280 degrees. If there are brake, steering settings out there that have been known to make people quicker I would love to know.

I imagine im not the only driver in the same boat so hopefully you guys some provide some helpful advice to us less technically focused drivers.

Should say hi to everyone here upfront. Been lurking awhile now

Anyway, Im no setup guru but have done a few seasons in the V8.

Firstly, wheel settings. I have always set my G25/27 at 900 in the windows control panel and let iRacing set the wheel lock automatically, as it adjusts according to each car. The only car I am considering changing it for is the GT... but I havent done it yet.

The three things that you can change on the V8 are brake bias and front and rear rollbars. It really depends on your setup and how the tyres are wearing during the race and what the balance is like as the fuel burns off, but generally speaking I run 1-1.5% less front brake bias in my race setup. As the race progresses and the rears start locking in heavy braking zones I will move the brake balance forward, usually a click every 5-6 laps.

Rollbars are really down to feel and I tend to run the same setting in my race set as my qually set. During the race, as the front tyres wear I will soften the front bar to try and dial out the understeer. If the car has too much oversteer I might soften the rear.

As for bar diameters in setups...well, this is where I get over my head. The thicker the bar the more rigidness it has. My limited understanding is that for example, a 40mm or 45mm diameter on a '5' (stiff) setting will feel similar in car but will provide more torsional rigidity. So if you like, or your setup works better with a soft front you might not necessarily change the stiffness setting but can adjust the bar diameters with thicker bars for your qually set.

There was a technical segment on an iracing.tv episode where they interviewed a real life GT(?) car driver on rollbar adjustments. He basically said he has them as stiff as possible for qualification and the race setup is softer - closer to a rain setup. He only adjusts the front rollbar during the race.

The V8 has a lot more midcorner grip this season so I am finding less rollbar adjustment are necessary but that is after one week and to be honest Mosport didnt require any in-car adjustments for my race setup. Infineon will be a different story I think with two significant braking zones and the fronts are torn to shreds there....plus the fact I suck there doesnt help

You want 102% or 107% FFB in the profiler and 900 steering rotation. Everything else on 0. In game I have the steering set to 900 and I run 7 FFB although I use to drop to 2 or 3 for the V8. Of late with the new tyre model and driving the Ford GT I now run 22 dampening. I don't know how that feels in the V8 though.

If you have the dampening at 0 in the profiler then no matter what you have it in game will be 0

lincolnbl wrote:Should say hi to everyone here upfront. Been lurking awhile now

Code Blue everyone, we have a lurker. W00dsy - Release the hounds.

hehe.

Viper, as to the in-car adjustments, the rollbar adjustments were very important on the V8.
Brake adjustments may sometimes come in handy.

But what is very handy all the times is to map the blackbox changes to wheel controls (or whatever the box is called - you know the one you can access with F1 F2 F3...)
The changing of the active box and changes within the box all can be mapped. If you have a wheel with enough controls or a button box, this can be a lifesaver.

For my G25, copy/paste with a couple tweaks

107% FFB in the profiler and 900 steering rotation. Everything else on 0. In game I have the steering set to 900 and I run 8-12 FFB although I use to drop to 2 for the ovals.

On ovals, esp super speedways, the little wobbles caused by FFB can make you look like you're weaving around a lot to other people and the yanks piss and moan about it because they can't comprehend lag. Been a while since I ran ovals though.

I didn't realise 22 damping wasn't working. Thanks Neil

DarrenM wrote: the little wobbles caused by FFB can make you look like you're weaving around a lot to other people and the yanks piss and moan about it because they can't comprehend lag. Been a while since I ran ovals though.

Good old lag... I remember it well. It was considered an art to be able to snipe on dial-up back in the days of QWTF.

Thanks for all the replies.

Seems like everyone runs 900 degrees, ill have to give this a go hopefully it wont take too long to adapt to but if there is a time gain to be had perhaps through better feel and perception then im willing to try it.

The setup i ran in the v8 supercar races last night (total disaster thanks to contact first race and then an off avoiding contact followed by mechanical failure in the official race) was Darren Vouch's setup that he shared during a practice session. His roll bars were set at 1:3. I found it was great for the first half of the races i took part in but the car turned into a slow understeering pig by the end of the race. As i havnt had much experience with the v8's (these were the first races ive taken part in) i wasnt sure if this was due to Driving style/Setup or just the nature of the beast.

Scott Mc gave me a hint to start the race with 3:3 but as we were in a qualifying session i couldnt really chat properly as to the reasons why. I assumed that the stiffer the setting the harder the setting and therefore less grippy it would be.

What i need to confirm is that...by running the car on 3:3 your making the car more evenly balanced right? and by increasing from 1:3 to 3:3 would i be right in saying that the car is going to be less aggressive on its front tyre wear?.

At 3:3 you would also be giving yourself room to adjust in either direction as necessary later in the race.

Yeah, but in saying that does that mean that the 1:3 setting is likely to chew the tyres?

I just gave 900 degrees ago......the cars are so much more planted! Previously i was running a made up wheel lock of 180 degrees to simulate the kind of lock ive seen in real life cars. I wasnt aware that iracing automatically adjusted lock per car.

Its still not completely natural feeling yet but i can see the benefits instantly...i actually think my wheel settings have been contributing to tyre degredation my entire iracing career. Jumping over the hump at limerock in the mazda used to always cause the car to skip sideways as it landed under throttle with a bit of lock..but now its almost dead center in comparison.

Also tried the v8supercar at mosport...while i was slower then last night the car felt completely different, so much more planted, i was actually understeering everywhere rather then oversteering!

By the way lincolnbl thanks for coming out of the shadows to reply first.

hehehe no worries mate. So you had my setup for the V8 race .... yep that was me, Darrin Vouch. Did I share my qual or race setup?

Yeah that setup did develop a bit of understeer particularly in the last 3rd of the race but never to a point where I thought it anything was too major.

The reason I ran a soft setting was to increase compliance on Mosports undulations and camber changes. My problem was that the inside left front tyre was locking particularly in T2 and the right front in T3. Ideally yes, as Darren said you should have some adjustment options - particularly to go softer.

I dont think a '1' as opposed to a '3' will degrade tyres more but it will make the car less 'pointy' on turn in.

You may have seen Shane Lowry's setup guide, if not, have a read. I found it pretty helpful for setting up the V8.

http://www.bustawrench.com/iracing/irac ... etup-guide" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

lincolnbl wrote:hehehe no worries mate. So you had my setup for the V8 race .... yep that was me, Darrin Vouch. Did I share my qual or race setup?

Yeah that setup did develop a bit of understeer particularly in the last 3rd of the race but never to a point where I thought it anything was too major.

The reason I ran a soft setting was to increase compliance on Mosports undulations and camber changes. My problem was that the inside left front tyre was locking particularly in T2 and the right front in T3. Ideally yes, as Darren said you should have some adjustment options - particularly to go softer.

I dont think a '1' as opposed to a '3' will degrade tyres more but it will make the car less 'pointy' on turn in.

You may have seen Shane Lowry's setup guide, if not, have a read. I found it pretty helpful for setting up the V8.

http://www.bustawrench.com/iracing/irac ... etup-guide" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Lol hey darren, im Nathan Moore. Honestly i have no idea, you had shared it to everyone during a prac session and i ran with it as qual and race setup. As mentioned above i actually believe that my previous steering lock may have been contributing to tyre wear.

The reason why i chose your setup over others such as madison downs and stuart woods was that it turned in nicely but didnt throw off the corner sideways.

Im currently testing madison downs race setup for infineon...a very complex track to get your head around for the first time but im getting there and the setup seems quite planted.

How about the brake curve settings in the menu in game. Mine is currently set to 1.80. Ive never been able to apply the pedal as you would in a real car because the moment you touch the pedals with any kind of application the cars in iracing lock up. Its also something ive adapted to using the brake very carefully.

VIPEROSI wrote:
How about the brake curve settings in the menu in game. Mine is currently set to 1.80. Ive never been able to apply the pedal as you would in a real car because the moment you touch the pedals with any kind of application the cars in iracing lock up. Its also something ive adapted to using the brake very carefully.

The higher the number the more pedal travel you get I believe. Or its the other way around, can't remember.

Yeah you can play with it (I think the higher the number the more "curve" there is, 0 is the fully linear which is recommended for pressure-sensitive pedals only), but if you have a short pedal throw you're screwed anyway IMHO. In IR most cars will lock up over 60-70% "pressure". On some cars/setups this can be lower, say 40-50%.
And that can be 1-2cm travel on a cheap set of pedals...now *that* will feel like you just touch the pedal and it's locked.

A1's FTW!

VIPEROSI wrote:Yeah, but in saying that does that mean that the 1:3 setting is likely to chew the tyres?

I reckon it's not the rollbars, but the overall setup's question. If you set the car up to start with a rollbar config which gives you more to play with, you'll last the race length better speed-wise.

ysu wrote:A1's FTW!

I'm using a set of A1s at the moment, but I noticed that the pedals that came with my G27 have a bit more pedal travel in the brake.

Does anyone believe that it would be worth switching, or are the A1s better? (I don't want to waste time getting used to new pedals only to find out that they're worse.)