G25 / G27 Mods

[Duke]

Anyone have or use any of these mods?
If so where did you buy, are they worth it & what pro's / con's are there on any of them?

NIXIM Replacement uprated springs for the Logitech G25/G27 pedal set
What about the Accelerator & Clutch Spring Mods?
I have also heard some guys get the Brake Mod only then shift the original Logitech Brake Spring to the Accelerator to give it a bit more stiffness.

Leo Bodnar Mods specifically the Generic Pedals Adapter, Shifter Interface USB adapter & the Shift Light Indicator Controller (SLI-Pro).

Oh & don't laugh what about SimBoots?
Any local alternatives?

[Exar Kun]

I barely touch my stuff anymore but do have the Nixim springs and the Bodnar box for the pedals. Springs made a world of difference and are definitely worth it. Easy to install and feel great. Bodnar box was more subtle by it did make a difference. Certainly at the time when I was playing a lot more it helped with modulating the brake pedal. As a very casual player these days I'd probably be better off just selling it.

[pab]

Anyone have or use any of these mods?
If so where did you buy, are they worth it & what pro's / con's are there on any of them?

NIXIM Replacement uprated springs for the Logitech G25/G27 pedal set
What about the Accelerator & Clutch Spring Mods?
I have also heard some guys get the Brake Mod only then shift the original Logitech Brake Spring to the Accelerator to give it a bit more stiffness.

Leo Bodnar Mods specifically the Generic Pedals Adapter, Shifter Interface USB adapter & the Shift Light Indicator Controller (SLI-Pro).

I use a Bodnar SLI-M on my rig, works as advertised, I find it adds a lot of immersion while driving, SLI-Pro would, of course, be even better. You'll need to rig up some sort of mount or housing for it though (perhaps either a wheel plate or sli tab from here: http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/components). Don't pay for software to run it, grab the software you need here for free at http://simsli.com/

Oh & don't laugh what about SimBoots?

Simboots are to be avoided, the guy who makes them regularly goes AWOL (is at the moment as far as I know) and you probably won't get your boots. Perhaps these instead: http://www.fasttracksims.com/sim-racing-shoes/, still not local, but I'm pretty sure they will arrive, or perhaps just buy a cheap pair of racing boots?

[Duke]

Awesome replies, thanks guys. look like the NIXIM brake spring alone is a no brianer.

Exar, what's the "Bodnar box"?

Pab, what's the difference between the SLI-M & SLI-Pro apart from price & more readouts, but is that all as it's not obvious to me on the website.
I plan to mount it either on the font of my sim rig desk or preferably inside my G25 wheel. Would one be better than the other for this application?
OK so it's Fast Track Sims shoes for me I'd say, still cheaper than a set of real racing shoes.

Sorry for all the questions.

[Exar Kun]

The box was an early version of the cable. Higher poling rate on pedal inputs I think.

[pab]

SLI-M only has gear readout and rev lights, the pro has extra readouts that can be used for speed, temp, revs, times, fuel etc. SLI-M supports 16 buttons/encoders (so if you mount it on your wheel you can use it for buttons and knobs as well, see dodgy phone pic of my wheel below), the pro does too, but also supports rotary switches (he sells a 12 point switch that only takes up two positions on the board) if that sort of thing turns you on. The 12 position switch can be used (amongst other things) to select what data is shown on the SLI's readouts as you drive.

[NeilPearson]

Unless you drive in socks i wouldn't bother with sim boots or equivalent. My feet got way to hot and sweaty in them and i couldnt drive with them. feels much better bare feet for me.

Installing the Cables for Sli Pro etc can be a bit of a pain depending on how you do it. I had an early version of an sli by some crappy comapany and it ended up breaking very easily. Plus i found the cable got wrapped around the wheel as it turned. So what i did was run a USB cable through the steering column of my G25. that required removal of one end of the usb and soldering on to the circuit board. worked great but sadly for me my soldering is not the best so it took a few times to get going.

I had found a Forum where there were instructions on how to pull the g25 apart and pull through a cable. Ill see if i can find it when i get home!

The hardest thing to find is a suitable backplate to mount it to, i always wanted one with more rotary switches than buttons. thats what i needed. I desingned my own but could never find a place to manufacture it cheap.

[wobblysauce]

Flinty, The Logitech wheel pedals combo used 1 usb cable, as a result capped the bandwidth of it making both the pedals 255(0-255) input on all 3 pedals.

Using the Bodnar box freed up the bandwidth increasing to 1024(0-1023), making it smoother- increasing the range eg easier to stop a lock up, side note it made the wheel smoother.

Also if you had bad or faulty/bad Pot, you could Dxtweak it to read better in the band, if you didnt have the Bodnar box you can see this would make the pedal very sensitive as the gap would get narrower.

[Duke]

Neil, I did stumble across your back-plate thread while searching on this stuff on the forum last night, I wondered if you ever finished the project.
You've also answered my next question to pab in that if a display is mounted to your wheel how do you route the cabling. Not sure I want to rip my near brand-new (warranty replaced) G25 wheel apart yet. I'm happy to do the pedals but not the wheel or shifter. The only real option is through the wheel steering column. Maybe I'll desk mount mine if I end up purchasing one.
Umm, I'm in a garage so footwear is needed especially this time of year I couldn't get away with bare-feet = brr!!! Plus if I do the brake mod it is likely to hurt too much & normal sneakers lack feel imho.

Tks Wobbly, I didn't realise by using the Bodnar Pedal cable that it freed bandwidth for the wheel making it smoother, but makes sense.

So I assume you blokes have bought these modes direct from the makers / suppliers a I listed originally?

[NeilPearson]

Never finshished, i still have the design just no one to manufacturer it. gave up. probably could get back to it.

If you run the cable through the steering column it just removes all cable movement, its best to do it. Desk you have to hack at the wheel a bit, and actualy now i remember having the 2 buttons on the wheel already is what fucked it the most. the wires are really fidgety. but simply wire them up to the SLI-Pro and you would be set. Desk mounting would be 10 times easier yeah.

what do you mean would hurt your feet? I have been using a pedal set with the pressure sensitive brake and it doesn't hurt my feet

[Duke]

Really, I would just expect the harder you pushed the more it would hurt the sole of your foot with these types of mods.

by the way check this simple brake mod out, wonder how well it would actually work?

[youtube] [/youtube]

[NeilPearson]

damn it flinty why have you done this to me.

so i found this place http://www.carbonfiber.com.au/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; who have a CNC routing crap for a backplate.

i am going to create a autocad file of the backplate i designed and send it off for a quote. Ill also see how many button plates i can get onto 1 sheet and see if i can sell the other ones for no profit. just cover the expense

[Duke]

Hahaha, yep & here is me looking at modding my equipment before I've even got back into using it. :P

Let me know once you've got a quote, I may be interested in one?

[Duke]

So it turns out there's an Aussie selling a brake mod for $30 delivered. It's called the GTEYE & can also be bought via ebay.
It's a progressive spring like the NIXIM mod but without the rubber block, which I've struggled to understand what that block is for anyway.

Here's the ISR review on youtube.

[youtube] [/youtube]

[wobblysauce]

Ya, there is a number of different mods out there now, some even use the progressive spring+ the filler(half a ball, rubber, silicone, some form of resistance. etc) for an even harder brake pedal.. meaning you really need to stand on it to get all the force.

Some have changed the pot for say a loadcell or another better pot, or even just change the brake pedal for another one.

Never been a fan of the NIXIM just a bog standard piece of rubber, you could always go to a place that sells rubber and ask for off-cuts for a lot cheaper.

[Duke]

Well I decided to support local ordering the GTEYE spring. Also as it has been designed to still be used with bare feet &/or socks.
Once I've got it all setup in the rig I'll report what I think of it.

Also ordered the Leo Bodnar Pedal Cable as it really is a no brainier mod. Still a hard to get my head around it being in excess of $50 (delivered) for a smart'ish USB cable. :O

[Scottie]

Yeah I saw the GTeye video and thought... shit, only $30?! and got one!

[Duke]

Yeah I saw the GTeye video and thought... shit, only $30?! and got one!

Well mine arrived today after only ordering it late last night.
I installed tonight & it does as it claims. The brake pedal is much harder & progressive but not hard enough that you need shoes or to permanently mount the pedals.
I am suffering from that click mentioned in the ISR vid even after following the GTEYE instructions to a 'T". It's right at the end of the travel & is more noticeable on the release & it doesn't even really make a sound. Very Strange...
I'll see if it beds in & disappears once I start using it in anger again. Either way it's only ever going to click in a panic brake event using near enough 100% brake travel imho.
I also did as the instructions suggested & put the original brake pedal spring into the clutch pedal to make it firmer. I've left the accelerator pedal & its spring alone for now.

[wobblysauce]

Well you could of done this.

To celebrate our GTPlanet site sponsorship, we are pleased to offer the exclusive GTPlanet Deal of 20% off the total price when you buy 2 or more GTEYE springs.
Enter promotional code GTPLANET20 during checkout when you purchase 2 or more springs at http://www.gteye.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
A great discount opportunity perhaps to share between you and a friend.

Also talking about springs.. have you swapped the other 2 over yet?

E.g.
GTEYE Brake Spring → Brake Pedal
Original Brake Spring → Clutch Pedal
Original Clutch Spring → Gas Pedal

[Duke]

Well you could of done this.

To celebrate our GTPlanet site sponsorship, we are pleased to offer the exclusive GTPlanet Deal of 20% off the total price when you buy 2 or more GTEYE springs.
Enter promotional code GTPLANET20 during checkout when you purchase 2 or more springs at http://www.gteye.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
A great discount opportunity perhaps to share between you and a friend.

hahahaha, I actually did Wobbly. I bought 2 springs the other being for my mate who is also building the same PVC rig as I.

[wobblysauce]

Flinty, Nice, what was the discount for 2 springs?

I also use the GTEYE spring, got it last year.

[Duke]

Flinty, Nice, what was the discount for 2 springs?

I also use the GTEYE spring, got it last year.

Total discount was nearly $12, so got each spring for about $24.
So did you suffer with the clicking after installing yours & if so did it disappear once bedded in?

I did swap the original brake spring to the clutch but didn't bother with changing the accelerator spring.

[Duke]

I had found a Forum where there were instructions on how to pull the g25 apart and pull through a cable. Ill see if i can find it when i get home!

I found this along on the same subject. Although I'm not keen on all the exposed wiring behind the wheel.

[youtube] [/youtube]

[NeilPearson]

thats it there but i found it in a forum i think


YEah im not to keen on that either. id somehow make it so its enclosed.

[wobblysauce]

Flinty, That is a nice discount..

Never really noticed it myself, just playing around with it now- there is a tiny click if I get up close to it, it is still less noise then the wheel-shifter and all the other noises going on when in game and only when you are fully depressed.