A.R.S.E.

Cheers Jiminee. You mean in a display case? I guess it depends if i stuff it up somehow. I'm not overly happy with the tiny writing on the engine block. But I think it's as good as I'm going to get it. I tried painting over it and starting again but found the extra paint was starting to reduce the fine detail of the plastic. I tried to use some paint thinner to remove it, but didn't have a lot of luck. And thought I'd just have to put up with how it is before I make a real mess.


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Looks like that's a job for some type of roller that would just apply paint to the raised section maybe. Still looking rather tasty though

Yeah I think you could be right. I saw fine tip pens for models at the hobby shop as well and wondered if I should have used that. Maybe paint something flat and press it against it. I'd look into how to do it properly if I could start over. I'm sure there are always parts you're not 100% happy with though. I might go back to it one day when I'm more experienced.


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I once saw discussion of a technique to use in that situation, they suggested painting a layer of silver (or perhaps it might have been a layer of bare metal foil, can't remember for sure now), followed by the black over the top, then when dry, gently sand back the black with a flat sanding block until the silver shows through on the raised parts. Never tried it myself, so no idea if it'd work well of not.

Edit: thinking about it more, I'm certain it was to use Bare Metal below the black paint.

Maybe you could have dry brushed it? I'm not sure of the best approach with those sections.

I'll look into it. I'm sure like most things there's more than one way. All a learning process at this stage, which is part of the fun.


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To get nice clean paint on the cylinder head markers mark Dex is to dry brush. Dry brushing is only having a small amount of paint in your brush and lightly go over the area you want to highlight. I use to wipe the brush on some paper towel before I did this. It might take a few goes to build up enough paint but it will look nice and clean.

Here's a pic I found on google that shows dry brushing well. Look at the highlights particularly the X on top of the seat.

That's pretty awesome. Any tips on removing the paint currently on that part before trying again?


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Best to test on scrap bits of plastic first to see if you wont destroy the surface.

Dex - I was meaning in terms of judging. Before I moved away from Adelaide I was a judge for the SA plastic model show one year and learnt a number of things that judges look for when assessing the model.
Now I dont actually believe in getting my own models judged, it is not why I build but it did provide a lost of useful info about building a model and what things to concentrate on. Only problem is now I can not look at or build a model without 'judging' it - a burden of knowledge type deal.
One small thing they look for is the removal of mould lines and ejector pin marks. I have built models along side all sorts of different people (most often in a 24 hour model marathon building event) and found it interesting the different approaches people take. No one is right or wrong, just different.
Me - I'm in the camp of trying to get all the little things right but not getting bogged down in adding tons of extra detail.
Hope this does not come across as picky or self righteous, your model, you build it your way.

And if you ever need or want to - the only way to remove Tamiya spray can paint is 90% isopropyl alcohol.
I know this from painful experience. Can usually be bought from a good chemist. It is not quick but it gets the job done. Just use it somewhere well ventilated and be prepared to wear gloves or find out exactly where you have skin abrasions!

Cheers Jiminee.

I didn't even know there was judging etc. It doesn't sound like something I'd be interested in. Or even up to scratch yet. I'm just doing this because it (sometimes) satisfies my various OCD's. I think if I got to that level it would drive me nuts. A 24 hr build sounds way too intense! I mostly want it to be relaxing.

I understand the self judging, I'm the same way with photography most of the time.


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Do you mean Propylene Glycol Jim? I use that to humidify my Cigars, and yes I get it from my Chemist

Very interesting thread, are you going with the authentic Tobacco livery Dex?

Jamo I plan to buy the camel decals yeah.


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Man these Tamiya sprays are a pain. Luckily I've only been spraying something that won't be seen. Pretty sure I tried to paint too fast. Warming the can really helps. I'm going to have to be very careful with the body work and build up very light coats. It wants to pool up very quickly!


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The thing I have learnt with those through painful experience - especially yellow, is it is key to have a perfect layer of primer down and effectively use the colour spray to tint it, rather than cover it.
Short sharp pushes on the button help to and move your hand really fast, otherwise they go cold. Also - a tip I found recently, if you are having trouble with bubbles in your finish turn the can upside down for an hour to let the various ingredients in the can remix. Sounds silly but it actually really helped. Painting on a nice hot day helps to.
With yellow to, it might help to do a set up coat first, as light as you can manage, almost dry, leave that for a bit, wet rub it (and the paint to) and then go again rather than trying to nail it on the first shot. I have no idea why but yellow is just a million times more difficult. The Silver Leaf on the other hand (TS-30) is magic stuff.
They used to be a lot more forgiving but California stuffed that up.

Edit - found it:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/paint ... Fkc0H2Z17l

The author is a bit preachy but I tried his advice and really quickened up my strokes and so far I have noticed a huge improvement with my results. Not only am I not getting bubbles but I also seem to be getting far better coverage - which is something I have struggled with for ages. Since it made a nice little improvement for me I thought it might help some others. Probably nothing new or that we have not seen elsewhere but this one sunk in for me.

Thanks heaps for that! I'll have a good look at it. Yeah this yellow is a killer. The primer I have is a grey and seems to show through under the yellow unless you get quite a lot of coverage. Is there another primer you think would be better? Actually had a look to see if there was a 'chrome yellow' in the enamel pots so I could air brush it instead of use the spray, but doesn't look like there is one


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There is a white primer along with the grey.

Yep for yellow I always used white primer, it's the only way to get the colour correct without having to lay on layer after layer which then fills all the little details in the plastic model.

I was just talking to a mate who said you can pretty easily decant the spray into a tube and run it into the air brush. Let it sit for a few mins and stir it well to get rid of the gas.

Certainly can. Everything gets bloody cold though!

Just some update pics. I think some more touching up to be done. And not perfect by any means, but learning all the time.

Yellow and black are a pain to mask.




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Looking good

You'll always look back on this model and think "if only I did this or this..." But with each kit you get better or learn something.

For me the seat belts stand out as I've had that same paint look on a Williams FW-11 and it bugged me for a long time.

I've seen people buying custom seat belts. I'm guessing they are actually some form of fabric rather than a painted on thing.


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