Your gear. The good and the bad.
- kwijibo
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
How much was the new 50mm hz?
- markus
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
There's heaps of usefull stuff at Ikea, such as this Rationell Variera translucent drawer mat for 6 au$
..or you could always get a Lightsphere for some 90 au$ instead Then again, one Ikea mat has enough material for maybe hundred lightspheres.
Oh, and the Ikea cafe has black straws
..or you could always get a Lightsphere for some 90 au$ instead Then again, one Ikea mat has enough material for maybe hundred lightspheres.
Oh, and the Ikea cafe has black straws
Much cycling such kilometers.
- DexterPunk
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
Hahaha! genius.. straw honeycomb gridsmarkus wrote:
Oh, and the Ikea cafe has black straws
here my uni is, using broncolor like suckers, when they could just go to ikea.
- Hz-Lab
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
Was $239 on the box. I paid considerably less than that thanks to my missus who got a kick ass discount. Lets just say I got the lens, the lowepro SD card holder (retail $29) and a UV filter and had change from $200.kwijibo wrote:How much was the new 50mm hz?
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
hey camera nerds i need your help:
i dont have a 35mm camera at the moment. i used my dad's '67 canon for a bit and it was fantastic as far as i was concerned but well worn.
so i am buying my own and im looking at rangefinders, because you can actually focus them at night, they tend to be a bit smaller / lighter, and all the cool kids have them.
after looking at the internet for a bit and listening to old-timer tales, i decided to see if i could get one of the mid-60's yashicas.
what do you think, and which one of these two lynxies should i get?
-- florida 1000 -- east coast 5000 --
bearing in mind auction circumstances etc.
also suggest other cameras if you think you're fast enough.
DO NOT WANT the -e versions, they are a battery nightmare. and the 14 is extra expensive because of the slightly bigger lens.
theres a cheaper [postage] 1000 in the UK at the moment but it has signs of not being completely clean and i dont want to have to do it myself because it looks like this:
i dont have a 35mm camera at the moment. i used my dad's '67 canon for a bit and it was fantastic as far as i was concerned but well worn.
so i am buying my own and im looking at rangefinders, because you can actually focus them at night, they tend to be a bit smaller / lighter, and all the cool kids have them.
after looking at the internet for a bit and listening to old-timer tales, i decided to see if i could get one of the mid-60's yashicas.
what do you think, and which one of these two lynxies should i get?
-- florida 1000 -- east coast 5000 --
bearing in mind auction circumstances etc.
also suggest other cameras if you think you're fast enough.
DO NOT WANT the -e versions, they are a battery nightmare. and the 14 is extra expensive because of the slightly bigger lens.
theres a cheaper [postage] 1000 in the UK at the moment but it has signs of not being completely clean and i dont want to have to do it myself because it looks like this:
- DexterPunk
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- norbs
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
Imaxibon, I am more than happy with my Yashica MG-1.
Its as heavy as a brick, but works like a charm. I would love to be able to find a working Canonet QL-17 that is affordable.
That Yashica LYNX 5000 looks like the go. I wouldn't pay more than about $60 for it though. One went last week in the trading post for $55 and it had just been cleaned and adjusted. I missed it by $2.
Its as heavy as a brick, but works like a charm. I would love to be able to find a working Canonet QL-17 that is affordable.
That Yashica LYNX 5000 looks like the go. I wouldn't pay more than about $60 for it though. One went last week in the trading post for $55 and it had just been cleaned and adjusted. I missed it by $2.
Sarc ; my second favourite type of gasm.
- markus
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
With luck you can find one..from ebay even. Mine was about 20usd and new seals was about 20usd more. It's in perfect working condition, and in very good condition cosmetically as well. Came with a bag (badly chipped) and a flash (near mint condition).norbs wrote:I would love to be able to find a working Canonet QL-17 that is affordable.
Much cycling such kilometers.
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
thanks norbsey, the MG-1 caught my eye because i already have a heavy little black olympus c770 uz which is of course much newer and more digital but does much the same thing and is wonderful. except my olympus has a full manual mode including whitebalance, whereas the MG-1 is a aperture priority auto-exposure camera... or is it fully manual like the lynx?
i was originally going to buy a leica after seeing eurotrip but then i realised they were overpriced, underdeveloped and good for holding doors open
im just getting the hang of ebay. i guess working out your maximum bid is key. so i should offer like... US $55 for the cleaned up lynx 10 seconds before the auction ends? its sooo pretty that im expecting a gumby influx in the last hour or so . maybe i should do my bidding on the florida 1000 which is ending a little earlier, despite not knowing much about it, and then if i dont get that, concentrate on the 5000? 1000's dont need batteries, and the seller has an excellent track record despite being a bit of a silent bob. but the 5000 is almost certainly in superior condition. to complicate further i could just buy the 1000 right now, for a somewhat inflated price which i may have to suffer anyway when the bidding starts and all this because i didnt win a mint condition, australian minister D, which went for $25
i was originally going to buy a leica after seeing eurotrip but then i realised they were overpriced, underdeveloped and good for holding doors open
im just getting the hang of ebay. i guess working out your maximum bid is key. so i should offer like... US $55 for the cleaned up lynx 10 seconds before the auction ends? its sooo pretty that im expecting a gumby influx in the last hour or so . maybe i should do my bidding on the florida 1000 which is ending a little earlier, despite not knowing much about it, and then if i dont get that, concentrate on the 5000? 1000's dont need batteries, and the seller has an excellent track record despite being a bit of a silent bob. but the 5000 is almost certainly in superior condition. to complicate further i could just buy the 1000 right now, for a somewhat inflated price which i may have to suffer anyway when the bidding starts and all this because i didnt win a mint condition, australian minister D, which went for $25
- DexterPunk
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
yeah leicas are over priced... but they are also very good.
uni friend of mine has an old leica, ive played around with it a bit, i think it could be run over by a tank and still work
i think if i botherd getting another film camera though it would be a medium format.. Bronica, or Mamiya if i could afford one.
uni friend of mine has an old leica, ive played around with it a bit, i think it could be run over by a tank and still work
i think if i botherd getting another film camera though it would be a medium format.. Bronica, or Mamiya if i could afford one.
- norbs
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
I find the trick with eBay is to figure out your maximum price. Enter that bid and don't look at it again. If you win, it might be less than you bid, but at least that way you don't become emotionally involved and make a wild bid at the end. And for the love of god, don't bid after drinking. I have a couple of lenses here that I dont have cameras for.
Sarc ; my second favourite type of gasm.
- DexterPunk
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
hahahaha good work
yeah its prob better doing it like that.. i was trying to win a pram for my sister the other night, and decided i was gunna bid $55 in the last 10s... someone else had bid $51. Anyway, i decided to plug the ethernet into the laptop so i dont have any issues refreshing with the wireless, and had about 3 mins left. That in itself caused issues lol and somehow ended up missing my chance to even put a bid in... so the person who put $51 in won the item. i was frustrated at myself for the rest of the night.
yeah its prob better doing it like that.. i was trying to win a pram for my sister the other night, and decided i was gunna bid $55 in the last 10s... someone else had bid $51. Anyway, i decided to plug the ethernet into the laptop so i dont have any issues refreshing with the wireless, and had about 3 mins left. That in itself caused issues lol and somehow ended up missing my chance to even put a bid in... so the person who put $51 in won the item. i was frustrated at myself for the rest of the night.
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
lol. duly noted. i want to win the camera, but i dont want to get poor trying. im trying to run a space program here at the same time! so i guess i should make a late bid if the price is still low but if a bidding war breaks out i should just close the tab and go fit out my nosecone instead.
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
*bump* so i followed norbs advice and goddurn it if i didnt buy the lynx 1000 instead of the restored 5000. berate me now.
my excuse is that im going for a mountaintop scramble and wont be here when the 5000's auction ends. and its already got a couple of bids DURRRRR, rumblings of all-out WAR. i got the 1000 for the minimum price [AU$37] so i just hope 1: he doesnt ramp up the shipping 2: the lightmeter wurks good.
boy howdy got r did
my excuse is that im going for a mountaintop scramble and wont be here when the 5000's auction ends. and its already got a couple of bids DURRRRR, rumblings of all-out WAR. i got the 1000 for the minimum price [AU$37] so i just hope 1: he doesnt ramp up the shipping 2: the lightmeter wurks good.
boy howdy got r did
- Nigel
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
If they are screw mount M42 I will take themnorbs wrote:I find the trick with eBay is to figure out your maximum price. Enter that bid and don't look at it again. If you win, it might be less than you bid, but at least that way you don't become emotionally involved and make a wild bid at the end. And for the love of god, don't bid after drinking. I have a couple of lenses here that I dont have cameras for.
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- J.D.
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
My gear:
Digital Kit:
Canon EOS 40D 1/2
Canon EOS 10D
Canon EF-S 10-22 1/2
Canon EF 17-40/4 1/2
Canon EF 70-200/2.8L IS
Canon EF 300/2.8L 1/2
Canon EF 1.4 II 1/2
Canon Speedlite 550 1/2
Fillum Kit:
Olympus OM-1
Olympus OM-3
Olympus Zuiko 16/3.5
Olympus Zuiko 28/3.5
Olympus Zuiko 50/1.4
Olympus Zuiko 85.2
Olympus Zuiko 135/2.8
Olympus Zuiko 200/4
Olympus Zuiko 300/4.5
Motor drives on both bodies
Why do I like the 10D better than the 40D? I like the look of the sensor better. I don't particularly like the way the 40D handles reds. Why does the 300/2.8L get only 1/2? Because it's inconsistent. Personally, I think it's an issue with the AF in the body. It's permanently attached to the 10D and they have been calibrated together. The 10D's auto focus is not as good as the 1 series bodies this lens was designed for so there aren't as many keepers as I'd like but hey, you can't have everything can you?
Digital Kit:
Canon EOS 40D 1/2
Canon EOS 10D
Canon EF-S 10-22 1/2
Canon EF 17-40/4 1/2
Canon EF 70-200/2.8L IS
Canon EF 300/2.8L 1/2
Canon EF 1.4 II 1/2
Canon Speedlite 550 1/2
Fillum Kit:
Olympus OM-1
Olympus OM-3
Olympus Zuiko 16/3.5
Olympus Zuiko 28/3.5
Olympus Zuiko 50/1.4
Olympus Zuiko 85.2
Olympus Zuiko 135/2.8
Olympus Zuiko 200/4
Olympus Zuiko 300/4.5
Motor drives on both bodies
Why do I like the 10D better than the 40D? I like the look of the sensor better. I don't particularly like the way the 40D handles reds. Why does the 300/2.8L get only 1/2? Because it's inconsistent. Personally, I think it's an issue with the AF in the body. It's permanently attached to the 10D and they have been calibrated together. The 10D's auto focus is not as good as the 1 series bodies this lens was designed for so there aren't as many keepers as I'd like but hey, you can't have everything can you?
сначала мы убиваем американского лося и белку.
"Journalism is printing what someone else does not want printed. Everything else is public relations." - George Orwell.
Proudly never a mod or admin at RSC from 2001 - 2009.
"Journalism is printing what someone else does not want printed. Everything else is public relations." - George Orwell.
Proudly never a mod or admin at RSC from 2001 - 2009.
- w00dsy
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
J.D? the one i know?
- DexterPunk
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
from RSC im guessing??? i think i can remember being before when you mentioned you like the 10D better.J.D. wrote:
Why do I like the 10D better than the 40D? I like the look of the sensor better. I don't particularly like the way the 40D handles reds. Why does the 300/2.8L get only 1/2? Because it's inconsistent. Personally, I think it's an issue with the AF in the body. It's permanently attached to the 10D and they have been calibrated together. The 10D's auto focus is not as good as the 1 series bodies this lens was designed for so there aren't as many keepers as I'd like but hey, you can't have everything can you?
by the way could be an idea to get your hands on a mcbeth chart and calibrating for your 40D, only a click in ACR and your reds should be spot on (and all other colours). Digital cameras when calibrated truelly are an amazingly accurate piece of kit.
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
I only shoot digital for now, the gear I use is all 5 star in my books
Canon 5D
Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM - Was on my 30D 90% of the time, haven't had the 5D enough but it will probably be used less...
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM - I don't use tele much at all, it's a beautiful lens though and good to have at times
Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM - Brilliant, was used for portraits mostly on my 30D, looking forward to using it for more things now.
Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM - This is the lens I am planning to have on my 5D most of the time. It's compact and light, well built (albeit plastic), focuses fast and has a very wide aperture for when it's needed...
I also have a 430 EX flash I almost never use but might start one of these days...
Canon 5D
Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM - Was on my 30D 90% of the time, haven't had the 5D enough but it will probably be used less...
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM - I don't use tele much at all, it's a beautiful lens though and good to have at times
Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM - Brilliant, was used for portraits mostly on my 30D, looking forward to using it for more things now.
Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM - This is the lens I am planning to have on my 5D most of the time. It's compact and light, well built (albeit plastic), focuses fast and has a very wide aperture for when it's needed...
I also have a 430 EX flash I almost never use but might start one of these days...
- Nigel
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
There's a switch, people migrating from RSC to ARSE
Welcome aboard.
Welcome aboard.
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- DexterPunk
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
all of which are great photographers... i was sad to see RSC slow so much, so am happy to see some of the guys migrate over here, im sure they will still visit RSC as i do, but glad to see some of the guys here.
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
Hey guys, do any of you take any precautions when you're shooting at the beach? As far as sand blowing around etc. Do you put your camera in a plastic bag or anything? I've heard a few people say that you should never take it to the beach, too risky with sand and shit blowing around, it does make sense I guess, my last camera stuffed up and I did alot of beach stuff with it, so I was interested to see if any of you pro guys worry about it or not?
- DexterPunk
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
never bothered.. i shot at a surf beach once, and after a few mins the UV filter was caked in salty spray. Gave the camera a good clean when i got back to camp... but generally dont worry too much about it, so long as you dont sit it down on the sand or something it should be ok. Or maybe not a good idea if it IS super windy and sand is being blown around everywhere.
- kwijibo
- Squatting Squirter
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
Yeah the salt spray is the main problem. You've probably got a UV filter on it though, so easy to clean up. My old point n shoot as taken hundreds of photos on surf beaches.. still works
- J.D.
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Re: Your gear. The good and the bad.
The one and only.w00dsy wrote:J.D? the one i know?
Yup.DexterPunk wrote:from RSC im guessing???
Thanks. Yeah, it happened after a mysterious post from someone calling himself "Jack Schitt". 'Course I knew it was a famous former RSC administrator straight away and followed the trail...Nigel wrote:There's a switch, people migrating from RSC to ARSE
Welcome aboard.
Most of 'em better than me. God it was a challenge keeping up over there. The standard is phenomenal. I've seen Dexter, Nige, SGP, markus, norbs etc. here but where are OS, Mole2K and Miah? Do they grace us with their presence?DexterPunk wrote:all of which are great photographers... i was sad to see RSC slow so much, so am happy to see some of the guys migrate over here, im sure they will still visit RSC as i do, but glad to see some of the guys here.
I'm also pretty much an escapee from fredmiranda.com and if I never live to see another silly sharpness test in my life it will be a grace. I still see Greg Campbell (he of the amazing lightning strike photos) over there but he knows I spend my time taking the piss out of them.
сначала мы убиваем американского лося и белку.
"Journalism is printing what someone else does not want printed. Everything else is public relations." - George Orwell.
Proudly never a mod or admin at RSC from 2001 - 2009.
"Journalism is printing what someone else does not want printed. Everything else is public relations." - George Orwell.
Proudly never a mod or admin at RSC from 2001 - 2009.