i has a wheel nows

[c.j]

g/f bought me a g25

[Cutter]

Oh crap.

Next AAL on the oval as well.


Carnage........

[c.j]

oi... lol...

"i'm cool"










"no your not"

[c.j]

Anyone want to share any G25 tips and info for LFS and IRacing?

[Duke]

what do you want to know SIn?
Try to plug the wheel in & drive

Na seriously it is a matter of personal preference in most cases.
I believe that iRacing is coded & built for using the full 900 degree rotation of G25's but I haven't played it so can't comment if a lower rotation works for the better.
There is also a lot of talk around the forums that you set the FFB in the profiler/windows controller setup to 101% but tbh I didn't notice any difference at 100% or 101%.
Do a search here, on RSC & the game forums (LFS & iRacing) for G25 settings and see what you find.

[Bauer]

for iRacing, set the wheel at 900 degrees and the sim will set the correct rotation based on what you are driving. i.e. the Solstice uses the full 900. hop out of that and into the Legend and soft stops will kick in at 360 degrees or so without the driver changing anything.

other settings I use

FF in windows 99%
everything else at 0
centre spring 0 but with box ticked (old habit, unsure if it is necessary)

inside iRacing, default FF is on 50 I think. Drop this below 20 asap or it will tear limbs off.

[Exar Kun]

inside iRacing, default FF is on 50 I think. Drop this below 20 asap or it will tear limbs off.

I remember my first lap of the Skippy after having only driven the Solstice for ages and with FF set to suit it. I think managed one ap around Limerock before the pain set in.

[Bauer]

inside iRacing, default FF is on 50 I think. Drop this below 20 asap or it will tear limbs off.

I remember my first lap of the Skippy after having only driven the Solstice for ages and with FF set to suit it. I think managed one ap around Limerock before the pain set in.

LOL I hear you. My first lap with the late model I had 1 hand on my wheel, the other on my monitor to hold it steady

[Righteous]

LOL,

I have lost count of how many times I have lost 4 speakers off my desk in a race session...

[Pinger$]

My desk weighs a tonne... 35mm thick old office desk. It doesn't move an inch.
However, now I have a floor mat under my chair and it's stupid for racing... can't sit still.

I'm all for 900 degrees rotation in LFS. Turn off combined pedals if you haven't already.

Not sure how ppl have their buttons, but I use the D-pad for looking.
The directional buttons for moving camera position.
Wheel buttons for horn and pit limiter.
..and the red buttons above the shifter for whats left (ignition mainly - hehe, still stall it now and then)
I use the h-shifter as much as possible. More fun and exhausting that way.

[Duke]

My wheel mapping in LFS are:
Wheel Buttons = PTT (for TS) and either Pit Speed Limiter or Handbrake (for cars with out limiter)
Paddles = Look left / Right
4 Red console buttons = Hello (Chat), Toggle between F9-F12 screens, Warp to Pits, Restart
D-Pad = F9 & F10 functions to move up/down and increases/decrease settings (left/right) (for Pit Strategy & Live ARB's & Brake Balance)
Top 4 black buttons = ignition, change view, can't remember the rest but they are trivial items.

As for setting degrees of rotation you need to factor in wheel turn compenastion if you decide to run a different rotation compared to the actual rotation of each car in-game. I worte this a while ago but it might seem a bit double-dutch but read it while playing with the settings and it will make sense.
At the end of the day if you want like for like steering then set the rotation to the actual car's rotation and WTC = 0

In essence if a controller degrees of radius is lower than that of the car in-game the wheel-turn compensation makes up the difference. Now dependent on which setting WTC is set depends on when & how it makes up the difference. If WTC is set to 0 then it makes the difference up at the start of the controller wheel rotating, so you get very quick steering initially when you first move the wheel from neutral (straight), whereas if you have WTC set to 1 then it makes the difference up at the end of the lock so it is close to actual rotation as you turn from neutral but then accelerates exponentially as you get closer to full lock.
So it does come down to personal preference but I would be inclined to suggest to anyone with a MOMO (270') have WTC set to at least 0.5 - 1.

Now if you set your wheel higher than the in-game rotation (say 900' in profiler and 540' in-game) then WTC only has 2 settings being off (WTC=0) and on (WTC=0.01-1.00). iirc at a setting of 0.01-1.00 it effectively gives you 1:1 steering, so matches the controller to the in-game degrees of rotation in essence real steering. Setting it to 0 means that you have to turn the controller wheel 900' to get the full 540' in-game which is not what you want.

The other interesting aspect to this is assume that a set made for one type of wheel/steering config may not respond the same to another persons wheel/steering config that is different.

[c.j]

flint can you send me your profile, seems to be something that i am after

[Duke]

flint can you send me your profile, seems to be something that i am after

Yeah mate will do as soon as I fire up the game PC either tonight or tomorrow night.
I assume your mean Logitech Wingman Profile?

[Duke]

Here you go Sin, 2 profiles to get you started.
1 for shifter (H or Seq) the other for the Paddles when using the BF1 etc.

[c.j]

good man, thanks